Kashmir diary - Pahalgam valley of shepherds

Unlike the day to Sonamarg, it was a bright sunny day much to my relief. After yummy breakfast we started off around 8:00 am to Pahalgam which was about 84.2 kms from where we stayed. We were told that we would pass through apple orchard,saffron fields and through hilly terrain filled with tall pines.Major places were Pampore-Avantipura-Sangrama-Kahanabal-Anantnag.

Pampore famous for its world class saffron displayed a barren field as it was not the time of saffron yet, how I wish to witness the field in its lavender spendour.There were shops selling saffron and assorted dry fruits all through the way. We sped past Sangrama, there were shops that made cricket bat and sold them too, I could see tourist stopping by to get the best bargain. There were security check at Anantnag. Yousuf our driver showed us apple orchard that were on both sides of the road, on my insistence we stopped by an apple orchard for a mere reason that I have never come across one.Apples were quite young before it could be harvested.I walked through the orchard and clicked few pictures.I was surprised not to find anyone to watch over.After sometime we resumed our journey.

 The trees were all lush green offering a great treat for eyes in summer. The pines were so very tall and the terrain was real steep I stopped  walked around then started to run through the place like a kid going back to childhood all over again it was so much fun.I was told that Gulmarg too had its beautiful share of this kind of scenary.

There were rafting points and Yousuf told us that the Amarnath yatris actually litter around destroying the beauty of the place like hell, thats not that good to hear. Pahalgam is on a picturesque landscape on the bank of Lidder river , green valley, Himalayas to border.

Don't get disappointed by the initial site of the small town which doesn't spill any secret of the real beauty it behold in its lap.The real beauty has to be explored on the ponies or by road.The price for pony ride are standard that is displayed in the taxi stand , do have a look and have it explained to you by them before you start out. Godiwallah or the pony man can be real irritating at times that might put off the real spirit of travelling but just don't let anything come your way.
We set out on to explore the place.
Betaab valley got its name from a bollywood that was hot here becoming a super hit.It just a beautiful place with its lush green , meadow snow covered mountains bordering all rendering a beautiful site for the eyes.

After having our share of  Kashmiri wasvan ,that had become a routine for us, we did some street shopping for salwar, they were quite cheap and you can bargain more .Only problem with these salwar is that they don't come with dupatta. we started our journey to Srinagar, we sped through groups of Gujjar (nomads).They were carrying their world on the back of donkeys with their dogs close by keeping a vigil of the family it serves.Men walked ahead with children while the women were in charge of their animals and tents

 On our way we stopped to buy dry fruits and made friends with that family.They were quite friendly taught us the basic on how to differentiate original saffron from a lower grade. and showed us assorted types of dry fruits.He even introduced his whole family to us and we got talking like old friends recalling old times.He had three sons all assisting him in business in their leisure time.His wife was teacher in a local school and they fed us with Kashmiri Kehwa , its a Kashmiri tea (they use  different tea leaves) floavoured with cardomom and saffron.Its the best tea I have ever tasted better than Srilankan tea.

It was not just the beauty of the place that we were carrying with us but the memories of beautiful people that we had a chance to meet.I consider myself really blessed to have all these experience.Our next stop was at the ruins of Avantipur

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Note:
The godiwalah /ponymen would surround you the moment you set your foot in Pahalgam don't lose your calm or get irritated they are just trying to get their business.Walk around and get the feel of the place and try to spot the board that carries the standard charges to places and ask them clearly about the package they offer.
Get friendly to those people and you'll end up listening to interesting tales about the people and places.
The ponies are well trained so you don't have to worry much but do take care if it were raining as the slopes might get slippery and you might end up slipping from the pony.
There are chances that you might get a chance to see more places with few extra bucks.
Do a search on the places before as there are chances of being fooled by the ponymen at times.

Kashmir diaries- Sonamarg, Meadow of gold

I was too excited for this trip to Sonamarg for n number of reasons the major being snow covered mountains and Himalayas in a close up..We started off after a heavenly breakfast from our hotel around 9:00am. It was drizzling and the clime looked just perfect for the day out.This was the map we followed along Srinagar-Ladakh highway over Sindh river.

Our guide cum driver Yousuf was quite friendly and got talking about the places cuisine and other interesting things about Kashmir and people. Kashmiri in general respect tourist I have not come across general public as hospitable to the tourist apart from Andaman of course.He told us how their lives shattered as a result of terrorism and how many of his friends  had to stop their schooling .Terrible days  when they had to stay home without food for days together without any clue about their surroundings , he also mentioned how their lives largely depended on tourism and when popped with the question as how their life would be in off season , he replied as a matter of fact  with a bright smile , that their life would get back to poverty..I was taken aback by his spirit.

The river water was so clear and beautiful it that it remained me about a travel show " Indian Holiday" which was telecasted in Sony Television.It was one of the reason  that really stung the travel bug in me way back in my school days.In that show they anchors used to camp on the banks of Ganges..woow I was really excited to get that kind of feel all my way.All through there were Army patrolling and security checks at many places.There were very young Army personnel standing all alone , Man when I am enjoying my holiday with all smiles a thought crossed my mind as on how it must be feeling to stand all by yourself!!! must be though, well they are indeed tough, sure men in uniform have always been.

After about 45 minutes the scenery slowly started to change from cloud kissed mountain to snow cap ,my excitement knew no bound.

When we were almost reaching our destination it started to rain which meant that I wouldn't be able to take out my DSLR and click the way I would have wanted.

The moment we got down from our car people with ponies came forward, with rain and cold the scene was not that attractive as I had supposed it to be , somehow with all gloves and winter gear  with much apprehension I started my climb up slowly and steadily on my pony.But once I got the hang of it, it was more of a fun ride for me.To certain distance local vehicles were allowed but tourist cars were let only till foothill perhaps to give the locals a mean to earn their livelihood..My surroundings were beautiful just like a moment from dream my only complaint was that it was still drizzling and I couldn't click pictures.Just as I got near to the glacier , I could see many shacks and shops and I was relived.My body craved for something hot, and coffee seemed so heavenly,there were people trying to get some heat for themselves too.

There are two options to go up one through sludge that would be dragged by these kids which was not that appealing for me but there people who were opting for that  and as per distance the charges vary.

I had fun playing with snow but with the cold and slight drizzle time and again got me exhausting hence after some 45 to 50 min I started my descend which was steep and I must be admit it was a bit scary and I was so happy to be back in the luxury of car heater

Guess what I found a frozen water channel on my way back.We didn't feel hungry at all so had lunch only after we got to Srinagar but there are few options for food at downhill...It was one of the memorable trips I have had, just brilliant but for rain it would have been a different experience all together

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Note

Bargain the pony and winter gear charges it can come down to Rs 300 per person to as high as Rs 900, so beware of the situation before you commit.

After you go up negotiate your distance and charges for sludge as well.

In case of rain insist for raincoat and waterproof glove.

Mughal garden- Pari Mahal

 Chashmeshahi which was built for Dara Shikoh, studied astronomy and astrology in Pari Mahal which was built by him , it is believed to have been built upon the ruins of Budhist monastory in mid 1600's same time as that of other gardens.Unlike other garden that are built on the foothill of Zabarwan mountain range this is built upon the mountain overlooking the city of Srinagar with an amazing bird eye view of Dal lake.





The garden itself I found to be very small with very few flowers and plants compared to other garden.The the major attraction being the view of the city .It must have been a wonderful place for an observatory in those days.








There were army personnel positioned on all corners  of Pari Mahal.All this makes one to yearn for a day when just like any other place in the country Kashmir would also be free all this terrorist problems.





Typical of all of Mughal garden this is also terraced
garden and one can enjoy the view from any part of the garden and listen closely to the howling breeze from this height.The construction itself is that of closed walls that I couldn't feel a freedom that I enjoyed in other garden, but the view was beautiful. All the shikara(boat) on Dal lake look very small gliding upon water

I could see the Char chinar on Dal lake from Pari Mahal.

Tourist trying all possible view.

And the view I enjoyed

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Mughal garden-Shalimar bagh

Shalimar the largest of all the Mughal gardens of Srinagar was built by Mughal emperor Jehangir for his wife Nurjahan in 1619.Just like chashm-e-shahi Shalimar bagh is also three terraced , there is a central called as Shah Nahar that runs down through three terrace.

 I could find  tourist flocking just like that of Chasm -e-shahi trying to lay their hands on water..There were more trees in Shalimar compared to any other Mughal garden.

Shalimar too had its share of tourist clicking pic in Kashmiri attire.This garden is a great place to walk around sit in bench that are built in tree shade and chat away ..These could be the moments when timejust slows down to the tune of Kashmiri breeze.



It was around 9:30 am and I could get to see birds in full action, after all not everyday one gets to see all this,So I savored all that as much as I could.

Flowers were amazing especially the roses , I couldn't make out if it were bush or mini tree..No matter what my rose  back home have never shown this much excitement growing up they all seem very retarded unlike these that were more than 5 feet.

Among all wonderful flowers somehow these were my favourite the vivacious colour just brightened my day.

My next destination was Pari Mahal

Mughal garden:Chashm-e-shahi

My next stop was Chash-e-shahi or the royal spring.When you are in Kashmir along with the beauty one has to get used to the tight security as well.This garden is near to Raj Bhavan and there is tight security checking for all tourist vehicles, we had to get down and instructed to walk and soon our driver joined us after the car's routine check.This is the smallest of all three Mughal garden  viz Nishant, shalimar. All three garden has Zabarwan mountain on its backdrop and Dal lake though Nishant enjoys the nearest view to the lake.The interesting part of this garden is its natural spring that is said to be discovered by a lady saint Rupa Bhawani. People believe that this spring has the ability to cure people from ailment, our guide told us that Noorjahan was incidentendly cured some kind of disease too.  I found tourists flocking the spring with bottle to collect water.This garden has only three terrace unlike the elaborate arrangements of other garden.

the view

sit back and breath slow

 Like I said before the main attraction of the garden is the fresh water spring whose water flows down to three terrace.A hut like construction stands at the first terrace which is the origin of the spring.The second terrace has something like a tank were the water forms into fountain.This was the best part of the garden  were I tourist could sit on the bench and enjoy the beautiful view of the garden with its water channel that divided the garden, this somehow remained me about the water channel of the Taj Mahal, Agra.

This garden was also built around the same time as that of Nishant garden in 1632 by Mughal governor Ali Mardan and is said to have been built for Shah Jahan's eldest son Dara Sikoh who learnt astrology in Pari Mahal (that was my last stop), that is near by, now how cool is that. Well, when you are a born royal you are entitled to enjoy  the perks like you have your own gardens with natural spring, palaces forts and what not  and the people born centuries later can all look at it wonder struck.Though there were wonderful flowers that were well maintained ,somehow it was other things that caught my fancy like the spring, the huts, fountains, benches and water channel. I could also see Kashmiri ladies carries grass perhaps for feeding their animals.

I came across a fallen tree that really made me sad fallen tree is like a lost life that is not that great to look at at then I looked at the flowers just to lift my spirit.

tuzzi lamb roast

There were numerous shops outside the garden selling assorted things but for me the best part was tuzzi roasted lamb chops it was yummy and very tasty.

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

 Opening time is 9.00 am and closing 6:30 pm on all days except Friday.

Mughal garden - Nishant bagh

Bright brilliant flowerbeds bordering and drawing patterns, beautiful fountain and water channels are the main highlights that forms one's imagination at the mention of Mughal garden, for anyone who has had their schooling in India.Mughal gardens in Srinagar is the epitome blend of beauty and design.
Though its been a year everything is vividly solid in my heart .There are three main Mughal garden Nishant ,Shalimar and Cheshm-e- Shahi . I started off with Nishant bagh.

Few points on Nishant Bagh

Located on the banks of Dal lake and foothill of Zabarwan mountain range,the garden was laid by Asif Khan father of empress Noorjahan in 1633 AD.Originally the garden had 12 terraces that rises from Dal lake rising above one upon another terrace stretching  as the symbol of 12 zodiac signs. But , in order to built road the lower terrace were destroyed and  today only nine terrace exists.

terraced garden

It was around sunset that I laid my foot to the garden.In order to get the first glimpse of the garden one has to climb the stairs and wow what a sight it just swept me by my feet with its beauty .and to add to it cloud kissed the mountain on one side and the sky blue Dal lake's splendid view onto the other. I couldn't help but stand and drink in the beauty of my surrounding walking through the garden I could see beautiful flowers , beautiful could be an understatement of course.

There were Kashmiri attire available for rent that could be borrowed . Visitors were all eager to click themselves posing to be Kashmiris..I did try myself to become a Kashmiri if only for few minutes and take in all the memories back home.The best part was the sunset by Dal lake I 

 stood there or a long time in silence and I couldn't help but a smile escaped me and that is the kind of effect these garden have upon you..My imagination took me back in time,as in  how in those gone by era s these royal  might have walked upon this very soil magnanimously . Had only they knew that centuries later there would be hundreds of mortals like us flocking in just to get the glimpse of these garden breath in the wonderful air feeling the very beauty they had created eons ago.. . Except for few renovation much of the garden is said to be same just like in the Mughal era.I would be adding more pictures of the beautiful flowers at the end of my Mughal garden post.

the sunset by Dal lake

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.