Kashmir dairy: Gulmarg, meadow of flowers

Gulmarg famous skiing paradise is at an elevation of 8,825 ft making a great place during winter.They say there is a rush of foreign crowd in the winter when there are skiing competitions organised attracting participants far and wide.Gulmarg is around a drive of 1:30 hr.

We stopped at Tanmarg to hire winter gear.We then resumed our journey to Gulmarg with all those heavy coats and boots.The drive till Tanmarg was quiet smooth but from from then on there are numerous hairpin bends through the mountain with pines making green scenary.

Predictably we were surrounded by the pony men and were told that Ponies are the best option to reach the top but we somehow managed to make them understand that we needed a cable ride than on pony.But our relief was momentary as we were surprised to see the crowd .

We booked for boarding passes online. There are two options phase one Kungdoor and phase two which is called Aparwath.It is in phase two one can play with snow just like Sonamarg. As phase two is closed time and again as per snow fall we could get tickets only to phase one which could be extended on arrival from the counter in Gulmarg.It is best to get online tickets as the queue is quite long otherwise.We walked through beautiful golf fields.

There were announcements of phase two being closed then being resumed after sometime.

After a long queue we got to the Gondola station.Gondola can accommodate 6 people in one car.

Pir Panjal and Nanga Parbat ccould be seen from here.The journey till Kangdoor was quite smooth and exciting.We could see a chair car that was not operational anymore.

View from Gondola stop phase one was real beautiful, there is a restaurant and many people selling clothes and other fancy stuffs throughout.After few clicks we set for the next phase very eagerly.we could also see the tourist who had opted for ponies also having a good time.

I must admit we had the best time in Phase two with loads of snow around and no sign of rain unlike our experience in Sonamarg.Its here that our heavy winter gear came handy, People who are not interested in exploring phase two need not go for the winter gear.We could only stay there for twenty minutes and I had difficulty in breathing and so started our descend through the Gondola back to the station.

 To touch and get the feel of snow and play around was such an experience the changing scene from green to white and to move through the soft flakes was like a wow moment.There were tourist making snow balls and throwing at each other.There were people who skiing too.Many kids were trying to make snow man too..All in all the day was something to remember and cherish.

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Kashmir diary-Ruins of Avantipur, Avantiswamin temple

On our way to Pahalgam we gave this place a miss , as we weren't sure about the time needed to go around Pahalgam. Luckily as we kept the time frame we got down at the ruins of avantiswami temple.
.It took us around one hour and hour hour from Pahalgam.

Avantiswamin temple was built by one of the greatest King Avantiverman one of the greatest ruler of Utpal dynasty.It was during his reign that the state went on the path of prosperity in every walks of life.He built two temples one dedicated to Shiva and the other to Lord Shiva in his capital city of Avantipur.Though Shiva temple has been restored, this Vishnu temple is  in ruins.This temple was built in 9th century. Now in ruins

this temple gets us a glimpse of ancient past.

There is a skillfull pathway that leads to the ruins of the temple and a flight of few steps that will take you to the beautiful looking ruins if you can call a ruin beautiful.

One has to descend to get to the this place then climb through steps to the place where once it were sanctum sanctorum.

I was told that the whole place was restored in the 90's by a team of archaeologists lead by Dr.Sahini.

I could see few elevated space in the corners of the temple,perhaps for smaller shrines or it could have been other space of worship or just space for meditation.

Many of the sculptures were very difficult to even recognise.I bought myself a brochure on the ryins of Avantipur just to enlighten myself about the history after I'm done with it, I would update the post.

I found two interesting things in the ruins. These remains remained me of temple in Kerala.In temples of Kerala one can come across such things called "Beli kallu"that are considered to be sacred, even during Pradakshina or parikrama even as kids I was told not to step on them.

I was also told that few idols that were excavated by British in 18th century is kept in Shri Pratap Singh Museum at Srinagar.The pillars are all restored to the best way possible to recreate the old magic

I let my creativity take wings to imagine about the roof and monumental tower of the temple with its sculptural decoration of the early days.

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Entry fee

Rs 5 for Indians and citizens of SAARC

Timing

9:30 to 5:30pm

Kashmir diary - Pahalgam valley of shepherds

Unlike the day to Sonamarg, it was a bright sunny day much to my relief. After yummy breakfast we started off around 8:00 am to Pahalgam which was about 84.2 kms from where we stayed. We were told that we would pass through apple orchard,saffron fields and through hilly terrain filled with tall pines.Major places were Pampore-Avantipura-Sangrama-Kahanabal-Anantnag.

Pampore famous for its world class saffron displayed a barren field as it was not the time of saffron yet, how I wish to witness the field in its lavender spendour.There were shops selling saffron and assorted dry fruits all through the way. We sped past Sangrama, there were shops that made cricket bat and sold them too, I could see tourist stopping by to get the best bargain. There were security check at Anantnag. Yousuf our driver showed us apple orchard that were on both sides of the road, on my insistence we stopped by an apple orchard for a mere reason that I have never come across one.Apples were quite young before it could be harvested.I walked through the orchard and clicked few pictures.I was surprised not to find anyone to watch over.After sometime we resumed our journey.

 The trees were all lush green offering a great treat for eyes in summer. The pines were so very tall and the terrain was real steep I stopped  walked around then started to run through the place like a kid going back to childhood all over again it was so much fun.I was told that Gulmarg too had its beautiful share of this kind of scenary.

There were rafting points and Yousuf told us that the Amarnath yatris actually litter around destroying the beauty of the place like hell, thats not that good to hear. Pahalgam is on a picturesque landscape on the bank of Lidder river , green valley, Himalayas to border.

Don't get disappointed by the initial site of the small town which doesn't spill any secret of the real beauty it behold in its lap.The real beauty has to be explored on the ponies or by road.The price for pony ride are standard that is displayed in the taxi stand , do have a look and have it explained to you by them before you start out. Godiwallah or the pony man can be real irritating at times that might put off the real spirit of travelling but just don't let anything come your way.
We set out on to explore the place.
Betaab valley got its name from a bollywood that was hot here becoming a super hit.It just a beautiful place with its lush green , meadow snow covered mountains bordering all rendering a beautiful site for the eyes.

After having our share of  Kashmiri wasvan ,that had become a routine for us, we did some street shopping for salwar, they were quite cheap and you can bargain more .Only problem with these salwar is that they don't come with dupatta. we started our journey to Srinagar, we sped through groups of Gujjar (nomads).They were carrying their world on the back of donkeys with their dogs close by keeping a vigil of the family it serves.Men walked ahead with children while the women were in charge of their animals and tents

 On our way we stopped to buy dry fruits and made friends with that family.They were quite friendly taught us the basic on how to differentiate original saffron from a lower grade. and showed us assorted types of dry fruits.He even introduced his whole family to us and we got talking like old friends recalling old times.He had three sons all assisting him in business in their leisure time.His wife was teacher in a local school and they fed us with Kashmiri Kehwa , its a Kashmiri tea (they use  different tea leaves) floavoured with cardomom and saffron.Its the best tea I have ever tasted better than Srilankan tea.

It was not just the beauty of the place that we were carrying with us but the memories of beautiful people that we had a chance to meet.I consider myself really blessed to have all these experience.Our next stop was at the ruins of Avantipur

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Note:
The godiwalah /ponymen would surround you the moment you set your foot in Pahalgam don't lose your calm or get irritated they are just trying to get their business.Walk around and get the feel of the place and try to spot the board that carries the standard charges to places and ask them clearly about the package they offer.
Get friendly to those people and you'll end up listening to interesting tales about the people and places.
The ponies are well trained so you don't have to worry much but do take care if it were raining as the slopes might get slippery and you might end up slipping from the pony.
There are chances that you might get a chance to see more places with few extra bucks.
Do a search on the places before as there are chances of being fooled by the ponymen at times.

Kashmir diaries- Sonamarg, Meadow of gold

I was too excited for this trip to Sonamarg for n number of reasons the major being snow covered mountains and Himalayas in a close up..We started off after a heavenly breakfast from our hotel around 9:00am. It was drizzling and the clime looked just perfect for the day out.This was the map we followed along Srinagar-Ladakh highway over Sindh river.

Our guide cum driver Yousuf was quite friendly and got talking about the places cuisine and other interesting things about Kashmir and people. Kashmiri in general respect tourist I have not come across general public as hospitable to the tourist apart from Andaman of course.He told us how their lives shattered as a result of terrorism and how many of his friends  had to stop their schooling .Terrible days  when they had to stay home without food for days together without any clue about their surroundings , he also mentioned how their lives largely depended on tourism and when popped with the question as how their life would be in off season , he replied as a matter of fact  with a bright smile , that their life would get back to poverty..I was taken aback by his spirit.

The river water was so clear and beautiful it that it remained me about a travel show " Indian Holiday" which was telecasted in Sony Television.It was one of the reason  that really stung the travel bug in me way back in my school days.In that show they anchors used to camp on the banks of Ganges..woow I was really excited to get that kind of feel all my way.All through there were Army patrolling and security checks at many places.There were very young Army personnel standing all alone , Man when I am enjoying my holiday with all smiles a thought crossed my mind as on how it must be feeling to stand all by yourself!!! must be though, well they are indeed tough, sure men in uniform have always been.

After about 45 minutes the scenery slowly started to change from cloud kissed mountain to snow cap ,my excitement knew no bound.

When we were almost reaching our destination it started to rain which meant that I wouldn't be able to take out my DSLR and click the way I would have wanted.

The moment we got down from our car people with ponies came forward, with rain and cold the scene was not that attractive as I had supposed it to be , somehow with all gloves and winter gear  with much apprehension I started my climb up slowly and steadily on my pony.But once I got the hang of it, it was more of a fun ride for me.To certain distance local vehicles were allowed but tourist cars were let only till foothill perhaps to give the locals a mean to earn their livelihood..My surroundings were beautiful just like a moment from dream my only complaint was that it was still drizzling and I couldn't click pictures.Just as I got near to the glacier , I could see many shacks and shops and I was relived.My body craved for something hot, and coffee seemed so heavenly,there were people trying to get some heat for themselves too.

There are two options to go up one through sludge that would be dragged by these kids which was not that appealing for me but there people who were opting for that  and as per distance the charges vary.

I had fun playing with snow but with the cold and slight drizzle time and again got me exhausting hence after some 45 to 50 min I started my descend which was steep and I must be admit it was a bit scary and I was so happy to be back in the luxury of car heater

Guess what I found a frozen water channel on my way back.We didn't feel hungry at all so had lunch only after we got to Srinagar but there are few options for food at downhill...It was one of the memorable trips I have had, just brilliant but for rain it would have been a different experience all together

And that's what I wore for the day, you can check it out here.

Note

Bargain the pony and winter gear charges it can come down to Rs 300 per person to as high as Rs 900, so beware of the situation before you commit.

After you go up negotiate your distance and charges for sludge as well.

In case of rain insist for raincoat and waterproof glove.

Kashmir - a preview

Kashmir "the paradise on earth" stands proud worthy to its name..I consider myself blessed for this chance to visit Kashmir..Kashmir is beauty personified in every aspect..Embodiment of scenic charm and picturesque grace,beautiful flowers adorning the meadow..I wanted to stay there forever....There are many places in India brimming with nature's exquisiteness but Kashmir stands apart...At one end palatial grren has dove white clouds caressing the mountains , while at other end there are snow crowning them....Cascade of crystal clear water gushes through river, rills and spring...Silhouette of Shikara (row boat) on Dal lake...Tulips, daisies, roses, orchids ornates the majestic Mughal gardens...Calm maple, pine orchard bedeck the country roads..There are apple orchards too...Dainty saffron to dry fruits , every bit of Kashmir is alluring...Age old traditions and rich heritage makes Kashmir a tourist's retreat...Ignore the terrorists unrest time and again, this place is an ideal place what we would describe as frozen beauty defying time.......all together paints a rainbow of colours in heart..
To me Kashmir was like a dream journey of my life..Stay in houseboat is something I treasured for eternity..The journey was en route Trichy-Chennai-Delhi -Srinagar...In the capital city too I got a chance to visit few places.. Until I post my sojourn to each place, enjoy the pics..

Gliding above clouds

Mughal garden..

Smiling bloom

Caressing clouds..

Standing tall..

Snow cap

Shikara (row boat)

Gushing brook

Another smile...

More snow..